WHAT TO EXPECT
Paris' 14th arrondisement is an unfortunate ring of suburban development on the southern side of Paris that is neither beautiful nor noteworthy. It is most known for the Montparnass eyesore. While that might seem daunting, don't let the venue inhibit the wanderlust. On, often cold Saturday/Sunday mornings since 1905, early birds and opportunist unpack bulging vans with remnants of lives gone and treasures debated. You can often still find stickers in French francs and cries of c'est tres jolie.
Port de Vanves is an easy one skip as it comes early. So I am sure there will be discussion as to its necessity. It is easy to pull the cover over your eyes at 6:00 am and opt for St. Ouen a bit later. Yet for the stalwart, for the relentless seeker, Port de Vanves offers the prospect of not only a find but of a new friend. French proficiency not necessary but helpful. If you have an empty suit case begging to be filled with smalls, this is the one not to be missed.
I have found some beautiful things here over the years. Among them: small intimate oil still life from the 1940's- early 19th c academic figure graphite studies. French ironstone/faience, Very early glassware. papier mache, haberdashery, oil paintings and beautiful textiles. (my latest obsession)
These vendors are far less curated than any other you will experience. Yet they are careful and respectable. If you exhibit basic respect- Bonjour monsieur/madame. Ca va? You will have an easy time.
Port de Vanves is cash only.
If cash is low, and the urge strong-there is a ATM up on the corner less than a block from the start of the market. I will point it out on the way into the market! I have been to this spot many times and have never felt unsafe. However, it is prudent to use all the basic precautions we will practice daily. While a fanny pack is so NOT fashionable, it is important to situate your person where you can know exactly where you $ are at all times.
(across the chest - on the front of your body.)
I recommend the "buddy system" -- Shop in pairs, stay close and keep each others back!
It will be smooth and fun!
It starts very early and is more or less finished by 2:00 in the afternoon.
